Our Evangelism work with the Evangelical Lutheran Church in Cameroon has taken us to many locations in Cameroon. We have driven through the edge of the Sahara desert (close to the Chad border) - the Adamoua Savannahs - in the Banyo/Bafoussam areas in the west - the highlands of the Nigerian border (Rumsiki), but the trip just recently taken was to a Baka (Pygmy) village in Mgang area of the dense rain forests of southeastern Cameroon.
I, Val, have wanted to take this trip since 2002 - a trip of a lifetime for me.
A large number of Pygmies live in the tropical rain forests of Central Africa. They inhabit the region that stretches from Cameroon, across the Congo, into Zaire. They are noted for their small size. Adults usually grow to be only three to four feet tall, however, we found their size has changed somewhat with inter-marriage (Maaka tribe).
I will refer from this point on to these people as 'Baka' - they prefer this name. The Baka are lighter skinned - they are gentle, peaceful people who have the ability to be camouflaged so well in the forest that they can be passed without ever being noticed. They have an extraordinary knowledge of the forest - it is their personality, enriched by the forest itself, that makes the Baka even more interesting. They rely on hunting and gathering for survival. Some of them may also farm or plant fields in the middle of the forest.
Today, the Baka no longer inhabit the forest areas alone - the tribe we visited in the Mgang area are examples where they are mixing in marriage and life with the Maaka tribe. They do still have a very strong attachment to the forests and their traditional indigenous life.
...
We have travelled 500 kms south of Ngaoundéré to the large town of Bertoua (~100,000) via Meiganga (where the ELCC Seminary is located) - then through Garoua Boulaï (ELCC Bible School) - GB is a bordertown with CAR.
Four weeks ago there were mortar shells exploding in GB with stray bullets flying - all was calm when we passed through two weeks ago. Evidence of the unrest was visible in the white UNICEF tents of the Refugee Camps on the outskirts. We presently continue to have displaced missionaries from CAR on the mission station in Ngaoundéré. Our prayers continue that peace will soon come.
UNICEF CAR Refugee Camp
We visited the Bishop of the Bertoua area at his home and church, which was not easy. The road to the church, which is not, as the ruts are deep and a market has invaded the area. We spent the night in a comfortable hotel in town - an improvement over the cement floor bed of one of our earlier trips.
The next morning we depart with the Bishop, a member of his church, along with Gashahun, Ethiopian Evangelist and Bishop's Asst Fomgbami - the ride was tight. We travelled 115 kms south on a very good paved road before turning unto a bush road which increasingly narrows until arriving at the home of the Chief. He was very angry because the Bishop had failed to inform him of our
visit (the Baka did know). "How can we arrive when he has nothing
prepared to offer us?" We hung our heads! "Nous sommes désolé." The Chief is of the Maaka tribe who have been assisting the Baka people in transition from a dense forest habitat to a more lenient lifestyle.
Our understanding is that the Baka people have been in a process of transition for 50 years, but many find it difficult to entirely divorce themselves from their bush hunter, gathering lifestyle.
New home shared by ~20 folk
Several kms down the bush road we arrive at the highly decorated entrance to the church - the members had created three arches in front of the church which were wrapped in bamboo leaves and adorned with yellow flowers. We were very impressed with this and the neatness of their small church. We entered after much singing and dancing in welcome.
This particular village had not seen a white person before. We had been warned that they may run away from us in shyness but, they did not.
The forest outside the small wooden, mud-brick and bamboo leaved church is extremely dense under the umbra created by the towering tropical trees.
Valerie and I were seated on chairs especially brought in for us and our group.
Long wooden planks are supported less than a foot off of the dirt
floor - the pews for the congregation of approximately 40 folk.
After we made our introductions, the floor was given to the Baka and
Maaka, to tell us a little of themselves. The oldest members of the
tribe still live in their traditional bush homes. Their dress while in
the bush is quite sparse, and had them borrowing clothes from the Maaka
(turned up on legs and sleeves) - the great grandfather's jacket was down to his knees.
I was slightly exhausted after the communion worship service and the offering of my animated sermon. I felt it was a necessity - that was translated from English to French to their native language - to be accentuated with gestures to aid in conveying the message.
We welcome you in the name of Our Lord and Saviour
Translation into French
translated by Catechist into Baka tribal language
The service, of much singing, prayer and dancing was over and we were being treated as guests along with the village chief.
The village Chief welcomes us...
But then, we are treated with a meal of antelope, petite fish, cassava (fou fou) and a drink of 'white water' which in reality is wine made from Palm fruit. Fermentation of the 'white water' increases during the day, therefore the potent affect of the wine becomes more obvious as the day progresses. The children were all given suckers (little babes also - and yes, some adults).
The Bible School in Garoua Boulaï - we pray for you Lèonel
A young man called Lèonel Medakala would like to attend the Bible School in Garoua Boulaï - his hope is to become closer to God and to help his people as a Catechist. We have left funds for him at the school for the fall term. Our prayers are uplifted for him.
We say Bye Bye - the chairs and some folk come along part of the way down road
The Chief led us further down road to the Forest homes - very interesting...
Lèonel in front of his hut
Baka Chief & his wife (she built the hut they still live in)
inside view
Chief's hut in denseness of the forest
The evening was drawing nigh - our day drawing to a close with these amazing folk. Prior to departing, a Baka tribesman walked forward. He was one of the people of the forest dressed for the forest - he clutched a blue New Testament in his hand. I am not sure if he could read it, but standing beside him was a Maaka towering over him. The Maaka was the catechist dedicated to doing what Jesus had asked. "Go ye therefore...". He told me that the Baka bushman was not totally a believer but as the transition from the harshness of the rainforest was not easy - the transition from the forest gods to a Jesus led life - while challenging, we pray in the end will be more fulfilling.
In the Bush village - we meet the Bushman hunter
Gashahun & Baka
Baka - Maaka of Mgang in Southeastern Cameroon
A day in our life very well spent - we will never forget these new friends of the forest.
Our days are wending down for the 2013 saga of Jack & Val in Cameroon
Cameroon has become in
some respects a second home for Val and I over the past 14 years, as we have
spent about half of that time in Ngaoundéré.
Soon
after our arrival on the 31st of December 2012, I was requested to
participate in the confirmation class and mid-week Lenten services for Cross
and Crown Lutheran Church. Cross and Crown was the congregation I was called to
serve in our 4 years as missionaries in Cameroon from 1999 to 2003.
It
was difficult to say anything but “yes”.
The
plan was to teach a group of eight young students (one was 12, six were 13-15, and
one was 20). Classes were to be twice a week and we would be able to have at
least sixteen classes prior to Easter when the Service of Affirmation of
Baptism (Confirmation) would occur. During our first class I was informed that
I had baptized some of the children seated before me.
I
had no material but the small catechism was available on-line, and thus we
proceeded.
Confirmation
Class offered an opportunity to explore the universe in creation and
investigate spinning planets and gravity, early concepts of a flat earth with a
dome that had windows to allow the rain to fall, and the knowledge of where
Galilee, Samaria and Judah were located in respect to the massive continent of
Africa. Together we drew maps of the area where Jesus travelled and preached,
and discovered in a geography lesson the flow of water from the mountains north
of the Sea of Galilee, down the Jordon River to the Dead Sea, and recorded the
distance as the crow flies from Nazareth to Jerusalem.
In
the midst of physics, geography and whatever science raised its head in the
course of our studies we discovered, via the commandments, the creeds, Baptism,
Holy Communion, the Lord’s Prayer and the parables in Matthew, Mark and Luke,
the compassion of Jesus Christ. Our focus was Care and Concern for others in
the same manner that Jesus cared and cares for us.
My
Confirmation Class was amazing. On Wednesdays after confirmation, the entire
class would remain for my mid-week Lenten Service. After we had completed over
half of our sixteen classes the Class had swelled to 10 children.
I
had to inform the two late comers that they could not be recommended for
Confirmation as they required more instruction. They immediately informed me
that they were already confirmed.
a barely visible cross at 5:45
The
Class was confirmed at the Easter morning service in which I presided. Prior to
that, there was a sunrise service on the side of Ngaoundéré Mountain. Actually the
word Ngaoundéré means Belly-Button Mountain, which
is quite obvious when you see the large boulder precariously perched at the
peak.
children and their dog attend the Sunrise Service
a chilly morning at Belly Button Mountain
Cross
and Crown continues to use the old Red Hymnal, but the books are decaying
before their eyes, and I am trying to introduce the Green Book, which I had
also attempted many years ago. Change is difficult.
Elizabeth and Charlotte are baptized and blessed
We
did use the LBW (Green Hymnal) at Easter, and the congregation interjected
their own Hymn of Praise which can take up to fifteen minutes to perform with
much drumming, clapping and swaying bodies. Totally exhausted we proceeded to
the prayer of the day. The first and second lessons are preceded by the Sunday
School Class singing (one of my favorites: “You can’t get to heaven on roller
skates.”) Prior to the lessons the Zion Choir sings and after the Gospel the
Youth Choir sings.
Let your light so shine before others...
In some Lutheran churches
in Ngaoundéré there are as many as eight choirs.
Sunday School sings before both 1st and 2nd Readings
Youth Choir
Much
singing and long services!
The
Gospel reading is also preceded by a very lively long performance in a tribal
language (usually) again with much body action, which offers a totally
exhausted congregation prepared for the sermon. Although in the service there
is much action, in reality you have virtually been standing or sitting in the
same spot, and to compensate for this leisure, the offering greets you with a lively
stroll from your pew around the church to deposit your alms accompanied by
another invigorating tribal song. In the midst of all the spiritually
influential action: the services for baptism (there were two) and the
Confirmation of the eight students had occurred.
The
introduction of the students was performed before the proud parents and
relatives, who were even more elated when after the laying on of hands and the
individual blessings, the students recited there bible verses without
hesitation. Most students recited one or two lines of scripture, but one boy
had memorized a large part of a chapter which elicited a loud bringing together
of hands.
The
loud applause caused our young confirmands to entertain with much enthusiasm
and appreciation via high pitched singing, and a conservative tribal dance.
In
a slightly exhausted but happy moment, the young people proceeded to the altar
for their first communion.
Our
pleasure with the outcome of the whole day was extended beyond expectation,
when the confirmands invited Val and I to dine on a vegetable stew meal they
had prepared. We said grace with words I had taught them:
“Oh
the Lord is good to me, and so I thank the Lord, for giving me the things I
need, the sun and the rain and the mango seed, the Lord is good to me , Amen,
Amen – amen, amen, amen!”
Gaius one of Jack's Youth from 1999-2003 all grown up
This
past Tuesday (after Easter) two of my class had stopped at the house to visit,
and told me as they departed, “see you tomorrow”! A look of surprise crossed my
face, as my calendar for Wednesday was blank. Confirmation was “fini”. They
brought me back to reality when they commented that we had begun rehearsing a
play “The Heavenly Express” to be performed before the congregation at a future
date. The play must go on.
The
next day, Wednesday, was a torrential downpour (yes the rains have returned).
Torrential downpours curtail people from showing up at meetings or church. Six
of the eight kids showed up and the rehearsal continued. See you next Wednesday...
There
are days here in Cameroon when I become despairingly frustrated. Easter Sunday
in 2013 was not one of them.
