Our Mission experiences from Canada into Cameroon ...: The Remarkable Baka People of the Rainforest in Southeastern Cameroon

Our Evangelism work with the Evangelical Lutheran Church in Cameroon has taken us to many locations in Cameroon. We have driven through the edge of the Sahara desert (close to the Chad border) - the Adamoua Savannahs - in the Banyo/Bafoussam areas in the west - the highlands of the Nigerian border (Rumsiki), but the trip just recently taken was to a Baka (Pygmy) village in Mgang area of the dense rain forests of southeastern Cameroon.

I, Val, have wanted to take this trip since 2002 - a trip of a lifetime for me.

A large number of Pygmies live in the tropical rain forests of Central Africa. They inhabit the region that stretches from Cameroon, across the Congo, into Zaire. They are noted for their small size. Adults usually grow to be only three to four feet tall, however, we found their size has changed somewhat with inter-marriage (Maaka tribe).

I will refer from this point on to these people as 'Baka' - they prefer this name. The Baka are lighter skinned - they are gentle, peaceful people who have the ability to be camouflaged so well in the forest that they can be passed without ever being noticed. They have an extraordinary knowledge of the forest - it is their personality, enriched by the forest itself, that makes the Baka even more interesting. They rely on hunting and gathering for survival. Some of them may also farm or plant fields in the middle of the forest.

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Today, the Baka no longer inhabit the forest areas alone - the tribe we visited in the Mgang area are examples where they are mixing in marriage and life with the Maaka tribe. They do still have a very strong attachment to the forests and their traditional indigenous life.

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We have travelled 500 kms south of Ngaoundéré to the large town of Bertoua (~100,000) via Meiganga (where the ELCC Seminary is located) - then through Garoua Boulaï (ELCC Bible School) - GB is a bordertown with CAR.

Four weeks ago there were mortar shells exploding in GB with stray bullets flying - all was calm when we passed through two weeks ago. Evidence of the unrest was visible in the white UNICEF tents of the Refugee Camps on the outskirts. We presently continue to have displaced missionaries from CAR on the mission station in Ngaoundéré. Our prayers continue that peace will soon come.


UNICEF CAR Refugee Camp

We visited the Bishop of the Bertoua area at his home and church, which was not easy. The road to the church, which is not, as the ruts are deep and a market has invaded the area. We spent the night in a comfortable hotel in town - an improvement over the cement floor bed of one of our earlier trips.

The next morning we depart with the Bishop, a member of his church, along with Gashahun, Ethiopian Evangelist and Bishop's Asst Fomgbami - the ride was tight. We travelled 115 kms south on a very good paved road before turning unto a bush road which increasingly narrows until arriving at the home of the Chief. He was very angry because the Bishop had failed to inform him of our visit (the Baka did know). "How can we arrive when he has nothing prepared to offer us?" We hung our heads! "Nous sommes désolé." The Chief is of the Maaka tribe who have been assisting the Baka people in transition from a dense forest habitat to a more lenient lifestyle.

Our understanding is that the Baka people have been in a process of transition for 50 years, but many find it difficult to entirely divorce themselves from their bush hunter, gathering lifestyle.

New home shared by ~20 folk

Several kms down the bush road we arrive at the highly decorated entrance to the church - the members had created three arches in front of the church which were wrapped in bamboo leaves and adorned with yellow flowers. We were very impressed with this and the neatness of their small church. We entered after much singing and dancing in welcome.

This particular village had not seen a white person before. We had been warned that they may run away from us in shyness but, they did not.

The forest outside the small wooden, mud-brick and bamboo leaved church is extremely dense under the umbra created by the towering tropical trees.

Valerie and I were seated on chairs especially brought in for us and our group.

Long wooden planks are supported less than a foot off of the dirt floor - the pews for the congregation of approximately 40 folk.

After we made our introductions, the floor was given to the Baka and Maaka, to tell us a little of themselves. The oldest members of the tribe still live in their traditional bush homes. Their dress while in the bush is quite sparse, and had them borrowing clothes from the Maaka (turned up on legs and sleeves) - the great grandfather's jacket was down to his knees.

I was slightly exhausted after the communion worship service and the offering of my animated sermon. I felt it was a necessity - that was translated from English to French to their native language - to be accentuated with gestures to aid in conveying the message.

We welcome you in the name of Our Lord and Saviour

Translation into French

translated by Catechist into Baka tribal language

The service, of much singing, prayer and dancing was over and we were being treated as guests along with the village chief.

The village Chief welcomes us...

But then, we are treated with a meal of antelope, petite fish, cassava (fou fou) and a drink of 'white water' which in reality is wine made from Palm fruit. Fermentation of the 'white water' increases during the day, therefore the potent affect of the wine becomes more obvious as the day progresses. The children were all given suckers (little babes also - and yes, some adults).

The Bible School in Garoua Boulaï - we pray for you Lèonel

A young man called Lèonel Medakala would like to attend the Bible School in Garoua Boulaï - his hope is to become closer to God and to help his people as a Catechist. We have left funds for him at the school for the fall term. Our prayers are uplifted for him.

We say Bye Bye - the chairs and some folk come along part of the way down road

The Chief led us further down road to the Forest homes - very interesting...

Lèonel in front of his hut

Baka Chief & his wife (she built the hut they still live in)

inside view

Chief's hut in denseness of the forest

The evening was drawing nigh - our day drawing to a close with these amazing folk. Prior to departing, a Baka tribesman walked forward. He was one of the people of the forest dressed for the forest - he clutched a blue New Testament in his hand. I am not sure if he could read it, but standing beside him was a Maaka towering over him. The Maaka was the catechist dedicated to doing what Jesus had asked. "Go ye therefore...". He told me that the Baka bushman was not totally a believer but as the transition from the harshness of the rainforest was not easy - the transition from the forest gods to a Jesus led life - while challenging, we pray in the end will be more fulfilling.