I am laying on my back in my mosquito net enclosure gazing at a star-filled Cameroon sky...
Our evangelism team consists of Etienne Fomgbami (Assistant to the Bishop of EELC), David Gadji (Evangelist), Bishop Hamidou Jean (Bishop of the North), Francois Sandjoulé (our driver) and myself. We have driven over three hours west from the town of Poli to the village of Njagou, located about 12 kms from the border of Nigeria (actually 2.5 kms as the crow would fly).
It is the dry season here as the rains have been gone for approximately three weeks. Many of the rivers that we crossed coming here are already dry or only a trickle. The Mayo Faro, a major river in this area is the only one where we see substantial water.
A rooster with a malfunctioning time clock crows and disturbs the stillness, but I finally forget about stars and the hard ground I'm bedded on and fall asleep. But, only for a moment, as there is suddenly a very loud bone crunching sound next to my head - imagination and dream-land convey an image of a meandering leopard chewing on my arm, but reality is - a chicken bone lying near my net-guarded head - being devoured by a small cat.
The night was long, the ground was hard and much cooler than I expected, figuring we were about 8° north of the equator but, this was all part of the agenda of evangelism.
We departed from Ngaoundéré on Thursday, November 17th at 7:30AM with our worthy driver François propelling us along a paved road north ~180 kms until we exited to where the real road began. There are many villages, fields of millet and corn and high elephant grass, all drying and turning yellow since the rain stopped over three weeks ago and will not return until about the beginning of April.
Bishop, pastor and Jack
The country here is dotted with small mountains created, it seems, by volcanic blasts in the far distant past.
I always keep a sharp lookout for wild life and rewards are not great on this trip except for two monkeys, two monitor lizards (big!), two squirrels and one antelope which I really didn't see because I was in deep theological conversation with David.
The road that wasn't
The road is not good but, by Cameroon standards not that bad either - and after being on the road for five hours, we arrive at Poli. If you go to Google Earth and enter Poli, Cameroon - it will take you there in relatively high definition. Bishop Elaine and Rick Sauer were here in 2007 with us. The church we attended is that octagonal building by the river.
We set up a portable movie screen - start a small portable generator, hook up some lights, a DVD player and a digital projector - the movie begins. A story of a faithful pastor defeating the evils of witchcraft. After the movie, evangelist David speaks, I and others pray and all of us - men, women and children gather together under a star-lit sky and we talk to God.
When I served as a missionary in Guyana, I struggled with some of the food - I am not a great curry guy but, I love Cameroon food. Chicken, goat meat or "whatever?" mixed with and floating in a palm oil sauce - nurtured by a mound of cassava, yams or rice and enlivened with a side dish of douli and some hot sauce, Yum! The hot sauce is like having a mouthful of free flowing lava.
Cutlery is not always available or sometimes even desired, which allows eating with your right hand and the added pleasure of lapping up the drippings from your fingers. Water is always available for washing before and after eating.
Friday morning we are all awake by 6AM, in a guest house with beds and mattresses. Breakfast consists of coffee and bread - we are then on the road again. The road is rough and the scenery is awesome!
When I am driving and hit a bad bump in the road - I always respond by saying, "je suis desolé!"
This IS the road!
I told our driver François that he ought to have a tape recorder where it would automatically play - "je suis desolé!" He laughed but "je suis desolé!" was heard many times.
Welcome to Balkossa
We arrived at Balkossa - also found on Google Earth, but not in high definition. We have been driving for two hours. We are going to stop in Balkossa on our return trip on Saturday and I will preach the sermon in their church on Sunday morning.
The drive continues and the road becomes rougher and the scenery more spectacular. We cross many dry river beds (some a trickle). We are on our way to the village of Njagou.
enough to wash clothes & water the animals
We are not sure where we are going as only one person has been here before and it was at the beginning of the rainy season where everything looked much different. Finally we have one river to cross and we will have arrived, but there is more water in the river here and we are no longer on a road: no vehicle has driven to this village. Motos (bikes) yes - cars, no - but, 4-wheel drive to the rescue and we are across the river and a big welcome.
4 - wheel to the rescue here...
I've really got the routine together and the screen - projector are ready to roll. We had problems with the DVD player but, Pastor Etienne had his computer and I had given a DVD "The Nativity Story" which was greatly appreciated along with Etienne's comments explaining the story as it progressed.
Being so close to the Nigerian border - English, at least for some of them, they understood.
We are offered quarters in the Chief's compound. They also appoint a young man to watch over me. I am talking to him in my stuttering French when he finally says, "Pastor I do not speak French". He had been schooled in Nigeria. We are so close to Nigeria that Nira (Nigerian currency) is more common than Cameroon cfa.
The movie is well received and David and Etienne offer their messages of evangelism and we each offer our individual prayers.
Cassava and our sauce with chicken - they pick out a chicken leg for me (no guizzard this time).
I assemble my mosquito net tent which takes about two minutes and place it on the ground with the end where my head will lie - about 2 inchs from a big chicken bone which I do not see in the dark.
Early in the afternoon Etienne called me and said, "we are going to the river to do some wading". The river at its deepest is maybe one foot deep. We walk for a long way down the river bed; herds of goats and cattle are enjoying the water while it lasts.
Early in the afternoon Etienne called me and said, "we are going to the river to do some wading". The river at its deepest is maybe one foot deep. We walk for a long way down the river bed; herds of goats and cattle are enjoying the water while it lasts.
A group of young children all ten years and younger have made a thick rope of corn/other vegetation - about 6" in diameter and maybe 10' long. With a child at each end of the herbage rope, they pull it across the water and scoop out small fish. I am not sure how many white people these children have ever seen - but, as soon as they saw me they ran.
the Children are catching lil fish in their veggie rope/net
Saturday, we have driven back to Balkossa. Tonight I will lodge in a bed with a mattress. My mosquito tent fits nicely on top. Aw, comfort.
We have a brief meeting in the church in the afternoon where I am introduced and offer greetings from Canada. That night we again display our movie: "The Pastor and Witchcraft".
All set for the movie
As the dry season progresses and the grasses turn yellow and become crisp and dry - the land is torched and the hills are amazingly ablaze. It is an unforgettable sight in the darkess of the night to see the outline of the mountains illuminated by leaping flames.
A great night of sleep on a mattress and I am up early and out for a walk through the village of mostly mud brick homes with thatch grass roofs. I suddenly realize that I have about ten young children following me at a distance. I finally stop and after some persuasion, encourage them to come closer. I ask them to tell me their names: his Samba tribe name which I cannot decipher which in turn allows all the kids to offer identities and then they follow me back to my compound where I approach them and shake the hand of each child - after which they shout in jubilation and run off in exuberant joy.
Wherever I walked after that - they followed. I would tell those I met, pointing to my young followers - "mes disciples".
Sunday morning and I am the preacher. At our gathering yesterday when Pastor Etienne was speaking in French, many of the women were requesting their native Samba language which prompted an elder to translate.
Djago Church
I have written out my sermons in French (in the past) and delivered it by reading from my notes. My French is not near good enough to offer the message spontaneously. This day I would preach in English - Etienne would translate in French and the elder would interpret in Samba. There will be some who will know some English considering our proximity to Nigeria.
The service is completed and our bags are packed. Cadeaux of four squacking chickens who don't appreciate having their legs tied together and taken for "je suis desolé!" auto ride, are stowed under the seats. I have asked to purchase a squash/pumpkin and have been given them as gifts.
Eventually I will deposit a bags of citron/lemons, beans, arachides /peanuts, a squash, a pumpkin and an unhappy rooster all at the feet of Valerie who was patiently awaiting me at home on the mission station.
The service is completed and our bags are packed. Cadeaux of four squacking chickens who don't appreciate having their legs tied together and taken for "je suis desolé!" auto ride, are stowed under the seats. I have asked to purchase a squash/pumpkin and have been given them as gifts.
Eventually I will deposit a bags of citron/lemons, beans, arachides /peanuts, a squash, a pumpkin and an unhappy rooster all at the feet of Valerie who was patiently awaiting me at home on the mission station.
Valerie who is and has been my valiant partner in our mission endeavours was unable to come on this trip because of her fainting spell and fall which severely injured her neck and head. However, she kept the home fires burning in Ngaoundéré and we were very happy to be reunited at ~9:30PM on Sunday evening.
Thank you Pastor Etienne for the planning. Thank you David for your commeraderie and dedication.
Thank you François for courageous driving - Courage - Courage!
Thank You God for giving me the fortitude and the opportunity for this trip and finally for getting us safely home!
My final 'THANKS' - for memories of faithful men, women and children gathered together under a brilliant God created starlit sky conversing with their loving God.
My final 'THANKS' - for memories of faithful men, women and children gathered together under a brilliant God created starlit sky conversing with their loving God.